Notes From The Travel Journal - Zanzibar

Off to Zanzibar, the impetus for this entire journey. After a friend mentioned that our itinerary might be overly heavy on actual safari days, I was nervous we would be sick of wildlife viewing, but we were actually despondent to leave. But alas, off we went on a puddle jumper back to Wilson Airport in Nairobi, transfers through customs and immigration, and a brief flight over to Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania in the Indian Ocean.

As soon as we disembarked the heat and humidity assaulted us. It was intense. Probably 95 degrees and 99% humidity, no lie. But we made it through the non-air conditioned immigration and piled into a taxi for the 1.5 hour drive north to Elewana's Kilindi resort. I've never been in a predominantly Muslim country before and observing the way of life, villages, people, shops, and culture from the van was quite the experience. Fascinating.

Arriving at Kilindi felt weird. The road was lined with villagers, shops, and "run down" looking hodge podge dwellings and structures then suddenly a gate with an armed guard appeared hiding this pristine property beyond. It was uncomfortable to see that dichotomy. Actually, I felt that a lot this trip and had to remind myself that tourism is part of the economy, but I still feel pretty mixed up about it.

 

Anyway, the resort was as insane as expected. Originally built as a private home for a band member of the group ABBA, it was comprised of 15 different "pavilions" discreetly built into the  forested hills leading down to the sea. Our home for the next five nights had a long set of stairs first leading to a sun pavilion with comfy beds and a plunge pool. Continue up to an open sleeping pavilion with huge doors that open to views of the sea. One more set of stairs led to the entirely open bathroom, also with ocean views. Finally, one more set of steps to a terrace with sweeping views across the treetops to the ocean. It was the most ridiculous place we've ever stayed.  

Our routine was lounging pool side most of the day, enjoying delicious food and afternoon mango daiquiris, then taking evening strolls on the beach when the heat slightly subsided. It was so hot that we didn't even venture into historic Stone Town, the center of the 19th century slave trade and flourishing spice market. We were disappointed we missed out, but there was no way I could handle a three hour walking tour since traveling four feet from the lounge bed to the pool was enough of an effort in the heat. 

So, woe is us, we embraced the relaxation. It really was the perfect nightcap to the safari experience and a great way to feel sunshine beach vibes before our extremely long travel day back to the wintry states.

I've struggled with how to really capture this trip in words. There's nothing I can say to explain how perfect, special, and just plain magical it felt. I immediately tried to convince Simon that I needed to celebrate my 50th birthday somewhere in Africa (Botswana and South Africa?) and because we never know what could happen, we should probably just do it next year. Love my logic. Anyway, I'd repeat it in all a heartbeat. Thank you Kenya and Tanzania.

Notes From The Travel Journal - The Maasai Mara

It has been awhile since we returned from Kenya. Honestly, it feels like a lifetime ago. This new world makes it seem like it was a dream, and it further emphasizes how grateful I am that we even got to go at all. I've debated whether I can bring myself to keep writing about it - out of slight sadness for this situation, uncertainty if travel will ever be a thing again, and because it feels so bleeping irrelevant now. But, I love writing and I love reminiscing, so months later, here we are. 

When I left off, we were enjoying a Maasai-run lodge in a reserve next to Lewa. Following our two nights there, we were dropped off at the Lewa airstrip for our flight to the Maasai Mara. We had encountered a few people in Lewa that had come from "the Mara" and raved about the plentiful wildlife sightings while cautioning that there were a lot more tourists. So we were relatively prepared when we touched down on a bustling air strip (still dirt) and were met by James, our guide from Elephant Pepper Camp. A refreshing drink and snacks followed before we climbed into the jeep and made the short trip to camp.

It became clear in the first minutes how very different this place was. Flat, grassy landscape with a tree here or there and animals everywhere. They didn't care that we were there, barely moving as we drove extremely close to them. Over the next few days, we got within feet of cheetahs, lions and their cubs, a mating pair of lions, hyenas, elephants, topis, hippos, giraffes, baboons, warthogs, jackal, these crazy jumping birds, cape buffalo, impala and other antlered creatures, mongoose, vultures and sooooo many other kinds of birds.

But I got ahead of myself. The first thing we saw as we left the airstrip was a hobbled zebra and a wounded wildebeest sticking close together, perhaps hoping that their co-misery might boost their survival chances. A rather quick reminder of the realities of nature. After getting so close to a grass-eating elephant that we could almost reach out and touch him amidst the sounds of the grass ripping from the ground and him chomping, we settled into our "tent."

Over the next few days we enjoyed numerous game drives and some absolutely incredible scenes. On day one, we watched two cheetahs stalk a warthog then lazily recline on the side of the road. Again, it was shocking how close the jeeps got to the animals and they must be used to it because they were unfazed. Two lionesses and their 4 cubs were the next treat as they frolicked around, batting each other with their paws and tousling in the grass before trailing after the adults in a little lion parade past the car.

On day two, we witnessed baboons, yes, baboons successfully chase away a small group of cheetahs. This was perhaps the most surprising part of this entire adventure. Apparently, leopards, which look similar to cheetahs, often steal the baboons' young, so baboons have become quite good at fending off cats. Um, never expected that balance of power. But then we watched the same cheetahs tear a little rabbit limb to limb and make quick work of their snack. Nature!

We also witnessed A LOT of lion mating. We parked near one lion couple laid around, mated, laid around some more, mated, yawned, walked in a circle, laid around, etc. etc. for hours. It was amazing to see them so close. Huge. And terrifying. One walked, what seemed to me, almost into the freaking car and I nearly had a conniption. They're big. Their teeth are big. Their heads are huge. Their jaws are enormous. It's hard to understand the majesty of these creatures until you see them like this. Plus, I never thought I'd enjoy a 6pm glass of wine overlooking a lion couple lounging in the grass. Truly once in a lifetime.

As was the hippo charging our jeep on the last day of safari. But alas, the guides know how to handle these things, and James revved the engine before said hippo could reach full-on charging mode. I'm not sure who would've been the victor in that situation, but I was happy to see him fade into the distance as we zoomed away.

I could go on and on, and I already have (I didn't even mention the giraffes!!!!!), but it's hard to put into words how insanely special this experience was. I didn't expect it. I didn't know how awed I would be at seeing these animals in their habitats or how beautiful the landscape would be or how profound it would feel to put those two things together in a land with people and culture and life so different than my own. While it has faded a bit with time and the current virus climate, I savor the memories and that feeling of knowing how exhilarating every moment of discovering these places was.

Reunion With The Pond

We drove north this past weekend for the first time since October 20! It was so nice to be back to the lake. Minimal mouse damage from the fall and winter, so we vacuumed and dusted, opened the water, and brought home a bunch of stuff for washing. We're thinking about relocating there a bit more permanently to ride out the quarantine and are waiting for temps to warm slightly so it's more comfortable. We'll likely meander that way in the next week or so. I was a little hesitant just thinking about the logistics of shifting our home office setup to the tiny cabin, but we'll figure it out. We're so lucky to have this place, especially at a time like this.

A Poem For This Moment

Dew Light
W.S. Merwin

Now in the blessed days of more and less
when the news about time is that each day
there is less of it I know none of that
as I walk out through the early garden
only the day and I are here with no
before or after and the dew looks up
without a number or a present age