Notes From The Travel Journal - Zanzibar

Off to Zanzibar, the impetus for this entire journey. After a friend mentioned that our itinerary might be overly heavy on actual safari days, I was nervous we would be sick of wildlife viewing, but we were actually despondent to leave. But alas, off we went on a puddle jumper back to Wilson Airport in Nairobi, transfers through customs and immigration, and a brief flight over to Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania in the Indian Ocean.

As soon as we disembarked the heat and humidity assaulted us. It was intense. Probably 95 degrees and 99% humidity, no lie. But we made it through the non-air conditioned immigration and piled into a taxi for the 1.5 hour drive north to Elewana's Kilindi resort. I've never been in a predominantly Muslim country before and observing the way of life, villages, people, shops, and culture from the van was quite the experience. Fascinating.

Arriving at Kilindi felt weird. The road was lined with villagers, shops, and "run down" looking hodge podge dwellings and structures then suddenly a gate with an armed guard appeared hiding this pristine property beyond. It was uncomfortable to see that dichotomy. Actually, I felt that a lot this trip and had to remind myself that tourism is part of the economy, but I still feel pretty mixed up about it.

 

Anyway, the resort was as insane as expected. Originally built as a private home for a band member of the group ABBA, it was comprised of 15 different "pavilions" discreetly built into the  forested hills leading down to the sea. Our home for the next five nights had a long set of stairs first leading to a sun pavilion with comfy beds and a plunge pool. Continue up to an open sleeping pavilion with huge doors that open to views of the sea. One more set of stairs led to the entirely open bathroom, also with ocean views. Finally, one more set of steps to a terrace with sweeping views across the treetops to the ocean. It was the most ridiculous place we've ever stayed.  

Our routine was lounging pool side most of the day, enjoying delicious food and afternoon mango daiquiris, then taking evening strolls on the beach when the heat slightly subsided. It was so hot that we didn't even venture into historic Stone Town, the center of the 19th century slave trade and flourishing spice market. We were disappointed we missed out, but there was no way I could handle a three hour walking tour since traveling four feet from the lounge bed to the pool was enough of an effort in the heat. 

So, woe is us, we embraced the relaxation. It really was the perfect nightcap to the safari experience and a great way to feel sunshine beach vibes before our extremely long travel day back to the wintry states.

I've struggled with how to really capture this trip in words. There's nothing I can say to explain how perfect, special, and just plain magical it felt. I immediately tried to convince Simon that I needed to celebrate my 50th birthday somewhere in Africa (Botswana and South Africa?) and because we never know what could happen, we should probably just do it next year. Love my logic. Anyway, I'd repeat it in all a heartbeat. Thank you Kenya and Tanzania.

Notes From The Travel Journal - The Maasai Mara

It has been awhile since we returned from Kenya. Honestly, it feels like a lifetime ago. This new world makes it seem like it was a dream, and it further emphasizes how grateful I am that we even got to go at all. I've debated whether I can bring myself to keep writing about it - out of slight sadness for this situation, uncertainty if travel will ever be a thing again, and because it feels so bleeping irrelevant now. But, I love writing and I love reminiscing, so months later, here we are. 

When I left off, we were enjoying a Maasai-run lodge in a reserve next to Lewa. Following our two nights there, we were dropped off at the Lewa airstrip for our flight to the Maasai Mara. We had encountered a few people in Lewa that had come from "the Mara" and raved about the plentiful wildlife sightings while cautioning that there were a lot more tourists. So we were relatively prepared when we touched down on a bustling air strip (still dirt) and were met by James, our guide from Elephant Pepper Camp. A refreshing drink and snacks followed before we climbed into the jeep and made the short trip to camp.

It became clear in the first minutes how very different this place was. Flat, grassy landscape with a tree here or there and animals everywhere. They didn't care that we were there, barely moving as we drove extremely close to them. Over the next few days, we got within feet of cheetahs, lions and their cubs, a mating pair of lions, hyenas, elephants, topis, hippos, giraffes, baboons, warthogs, jackal, these crazy jumping birds, cape buffalo, impala and other antlered creatures, mongoose, vultures and sooooo many other kinds of birds.

But I got ahead of myself. The first thing we saw as we left the airstrip was a hobbled zebra and a wounded wildebeest sticking close together, perhaps hoping that their co-misery might boost their survival chances. A rather quick reminder of the realities of nature. After getting so close to a grass-eating elephant that we could almost reach out and touch him amidst the sounds of the grass ripping from the ground and him chomping, we settled into our "tent."

Over the next few days we enjoyed numerous game drives and some absolutely incredible scenes. On day one, we watched two cheetahs stalk a warthog then lazily recline on the side of the road. Again, it was shocking how close the jeeps got to the animals and they must be used to it because they were unfazed. Two lionesses and their 4 cubs were the next treat as they frolicked around, batting each other with their paws and tousling in the grass before trailing after the adults in a little lion parade past the car.

On day two, we witnessed baboons, yes, baboons successfully chase away a small group of cheetahs. This was perhaps the most surprising part of this entire adventure. Apparently, leopards, which look similar to cheetahs, often steal the baboons' young, so baboons have become quite good at fending off cats. Um, never expected that balance of power. But then we watched the same cheetahs tear a little rabbit limb to limb and make quick work of their snack. Nature!

We also witnessed A LOT of lion mating. We parked near one lion couple laid around, mated, laid around some more, mated, yawned, walked in a circle, laid around, etc. etc. for hours. It was amazing to see them so close. Huge. And terrifying. One walked, what seemed to me, almost into the freaking car and I nearly had a conniption. They're big. Their teeth are big. Their heads are huge. Their jaws are enormous. It's hard to understand the majesty of these creatures until you see them like this. Plus, I never thought I'd enjoy a 6pm glass of wine overlooking a lion couple lounging in the grass. Truly once in a lifetime.

As was the hippo charging our jeep on the last day of safari. But alas, the guides know how to handle these things, and James revved the engine before said hippo could reach full-on charging mode. I'm not sure who would've been the victor in that situation, but I was happy to see him fade into the distance as we zoomed away.

I could go on and on, and I already have (I didn't even mention the giraffes!!!!!), but it's hard to put into words how insanely special this experience was. I didn't expect it. I didn't know how awed I would be at seeing these animals in their habitats or how beautiful the landscape would be or how profound it would feel to put those two things together in a land with people and culture and life so different than my own. While it has faded a bit with time and the current virus climate, I savor the memories and that feeling of knowing how exhilarating every moment of discovering these places was.

Notes From The Travel Journal - Il Ngwesi

We were collected from Kifaru House by Fred and Jerom to make the two-hour over land trek to the Il Ngwesi Eco Lodge, the only lodge in Kenya entirely operated and owned by the Maasai people. Our Kifaru guide Philip had been happy that our next stop was Ngwesi. His brother was a lodge founder and they grew up nearby. You got the sense that this place and its singular success were an immense source of pride for the local people.

On the drive, we passed through the Lewa gates into residential areas with villages, waving children, goats, cattle, local people washing in the river, and ever-increasing heat as we descended. Just the drive made us happy we pushed to have this place included in our itinerary. It was clearly well off the "beaten track" of a typical safari. Being enormously out of place as the only white person for miles was a humbling experience. The young children waved exuberantly, slightly older children hesitantly smiled, and adults seemed to glower. I'm sure the relationship with white people is complex and complicated with layers of history I can't even begin to understand. Already it felt really important to have had this experience.

We arrived at the lodge and trekked up and down a bunch of steps to settle into our entirely open-air "honeymoon suite" with views out over the local watering hole then beyond across the vast valley. This place was an adjustment after the luxurious Kifaru House with lunch leaving a bit to be desired prior to loading back into the jeep to head to the local village.

The village tour was...I don't know...eye opening? Profound? Huge? I can't explain it. We started by learning history of the local Maasai, a tribe with a semi-nomadic lifestyle centered on their cattle herds. We witnessed a hunting demonstration, then honey gathering and fire starting operations outside the village walls before moving inside where the women greeted us with singing and dancing (I participated). It was simultaneously fascinating, amazing, and uncomfortable. Cattle and people mingle within the village walls, designed to protect the goats and cows from evening predators. We toured a dwelling made of sticks and dried dung that was probably over 100 degrees inside, entirely dark, with a non-ventilated fire constantly burning. Three dirt floor rooms, an itty bitty "kitchen," and a platform with cow hides for sleeping. 

I was struck by the contrast of this place with my two homes, space, car, furnishings, possessions, electricity, etc. It made me feel a lot of things none of which I can put into words, but aside from the wonder of the animals and vistas, I have been most affected by what appears to be, based on this one little experience, the dramatically different role of women in these cultures. That has really stuck with me long after we departed.

Unfortunately, later that evening, Simon developed a stomach issue so after an exciting night sleeping under the stars in the roll out "star bed" (highly recommend but perhaps not when it starts to pour at 2am) we hung pool side most of the next day. He felt well enough for a late afternoon trip to their rhino sanctuary where we came face to face with a rhino on foot. Holy. Moly. It felt immensely different to stand next to this animal instead of watching him from the safety of a vehicle. We were grateful for the armed guide and ravine standing between us and Mr. Rhino. 

Without Il Ngwesi, our trip to Kenya would've, likely unbeknownst to us, lacked "Kenya." By exiting those gates, we saw people living their lives in very different ways than our own. This was surely just the tip of the iceberg for seeing and understanding a new culture, but it is more than we would've gotten if we hadn't ventured beyond the typical safari path. It left me wanting to know more, learn more, and understand more about the Maasai, their traditions, culture, and history.

As ignorant as it sounds, it made me realize I had been programmed to visualize "Africa" as dry land sprinkled with huts of starving children and flies buzzing their faces. While the village tour affirmed that image, the Maasai way of life is just one of Kenya's many cultures as we were reminded by our dinner conversation with Il Ngwesi's new manager. She lives in Nairobi, where her teenage son is now. "He would never come here," she told us. "He would hate the rural isolation." Just like a teenager in New York.