Neither Here Nor There

Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Neither Here Nor There
W.S. Merwin

An airport is nowhere
which is not something
generally noticed

yet some unnamed person in the past
deliberately planned it

and you have spent time there
again
for something you have done
which you do not entirely remember
like the souls in Purgatory

you sit there in the smell
of what passes for food
breathing what is called air
while the timepieces measure
their agreement

you believe in it
while you are there
because you are there
sometimes you may even feel happy
to be that far on your way
to somewhere

These days, I am neither here nor there. I bet everyone feels that, but lately it seems to be a prevailing emotion in Kelly la la land. I don't feel like I belong where I am or that I'll belong wherever I am going. I can't even tell you where I'm going. Not because it's some top-secret government destination with an unmarked door at the foot of a cave but because I have no idea. Maybe this is it, just this right here. And like the narrator says there are so many moments of happiness and meaning in the now that this could be it all. But really? Could that be IT for the rest of forever? There's more to say but I don't feel like saying it. Blah.

A Poem For A Monday

Monday, March 21, 2016

Hope and Love
Jane Hirschfield

All winter
the blue heron
slept among the horses.
I do not know
the custom of herons,
do not know
if the solitary habit
is their way,
or if he listened for
some missing one--
not knowing even
that was what he did--
in the blowing
sounds in the dark,
I know that
hope is the hardest
love we carry.
He slept
with his long neck
folded, like a letter
put away.

Book Report - Flavia De Luce Series

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

I met the most wonderful little girl a few weeks ago. Her name is Flavia de Luce and she is the precocious eleven-year old star of the series I've been reading. They are written by Alan Bradley and are, of course, mystery novels. Some say they are Young Adult, some say they are Adult and the author says genres are rubbish.

Depending on your personality, you may need to suspend some belief in reality when you read these. Little Flavia buzzes around her 1950's English town on her trusty bicycle, happening across murdered bodies and digging up clues while spending her off hours in her chemistry lab, concocting poisons for her two older sisters. So yeah, not 100% believable but the tone of the books is just so charming and sweet while the mysteries have been engaging and entertaining.

There are seven total with the eighth due out in September. I've sped through the first four and am desperately trying to chill my pace. I've also just seen that the books are becoming a ten-episode TV series! Highly recommend - a delightful combination of sweetness and murder.

Notes From The Travel Journal--Islita

Sunday, March 13, 2016



After our final night of happy sleep in the cloud forest, we shipped off on another dirt road journey to Islita, a tiny town on the Nicoya Peninsula with Hotel Punta Islita as its centerpiece. Despite getting a flat tire as we pulled into the hotel's parking lot (what is it with us and international rental cars?!) we were happily in awe of the breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean.

The hotel is spread over a sizeable hill with rooms scattered across the side of the slope overlooking the sea. The main area with a restaurant, pool and swim-up bar was at the top of the hill (along with our room) and the beach, more casual restaurant, and another pool was a 10-15 minute walk down the hill. Down was easy. Up was not, especially with afternoon temps in the upper 90s every day. 

We quickly embraced a comfortable and relaxing beach routine for our four days there. Coffee and breakfast, walk down to the beach, make ourselves at home on a lovely hammock-type bed at the edge of the sand under the palm trees, play cards, take a dip, drink a fruit smoothie, read, lunch at the bar, icy coffee drink, take a dip, stroll on the beach as the sun waned, then hike back to the top of the resort. Reward for the steep climb was a cocktail at the swim up bar and amazing sunsets from the edge of the infinity pool. Rinse and repeat.

We didn't take advantage of the all-excursions-included aspect of the hotel (zip lining, horseback riding, etc.) but did opt to join Eduardo for a "monkey hike" one morning. It ended up being just the two of us with the guide and this was a real highlight of the trip. I was skeptical as Eduardo led us down the main road of the resort - I had assumed we'd have to go offsite to see monkeys but then Simon reminded me that we'd been hearing the monkeys every night of our stay.

We spotted a neat yellow crested bird, a drowsy looking bat, and learned all about cashew trees before Eduardo led us through a dried up creek bed, set down his binocular tripod thingy, and motioned us over. Monkey!!!! He was languishing in the treetop - legs, arms and tail all wound around the branches. Costa Rica has four species but the howler monkey that he showed us is the second loudest animal in the world. Eduardo got him howling a bit - wow! We saw 5 more, one of which tried to pee on us, one of which pooped on us but missed, and one of which was the sweetest little baby. I've never seen monkeys in the wild - it was awesome!

While this trip provided a much-needed relaxing respite from the winter, overall, I was surprised at how fascinating I found the bio-diversity. I wasn't expecting that. So many plants and creatures that I didn't even know existed, much less expect to ever see in their home habitats. The stomach bug tried to erase the memories of sun and adventure over the last week, but I love you Costa Rica. Pura vida!!!!

Notes From The Travel Journal--Monteverde, Part Two

Friday, March 11, 2016

The fun didn't stop at Selvatura Adventure Park. We returned to Belmar for lunch and a nap (ahh vacations) before trying our hands at a Vinyasa flow yoga class in the Chalet's downstairs studio. Despite the instructor's zen vibe, Vinyasa flow was anything but zen for this inexperienced yogi. You would think I would get along well with the downward dog given its name, but it was all quite painful. Anyway, from there, we set off on our guided night hike at a neighboring preserve. 

Christian was the perfect guide, regaling us with tales of growing up in Costa Rica and details about the plants and animals of the cloud forest. We started at dusk but he handed out flashlights to help us spot critters in the pitch black night. The forest came alive - crickets chirping, fireflies all about, lots of bugs crawling. We learned about the fascinating "strangler fig" tree (pictured at the end of my previous post), which starts as a seed, likely dispersed by a bird onto the top of an existing tree. They then grow their roots downward (while also reaching up to the sun above the canopy) and envelop the host tree in its roots, effectively strangling it. We saw these trees all over Costa Rica and even went inside an enormous one on the hike. Other highlights included a sizeable tarantula that Christian coaxed out of her hole with a stick (eee!), leaf bug, stick bug, black salamander, armadillo, scorpions spotted in Christian's ultraviolet light, bats, and about a zillion insects. It was really cool.

The following day we tried our hand at the other hike on the hotel's property. Here's some advice. When you ask the hotel staff about the hike and they say "it's steep," read between the lines and realize what they are trying to tell you is, "IT'S THE STEEPEST THING YOU WILL EVER CLIMB AND YOU WILL DIE GOING UP OR TRYING TO COME DOWN."

We weren't savvy enough to realize we were setting ourselves up for untimely deaths so merrily set off on the dirt path. It was ridiculous. I know I'm old and creaky and out of shape but it was insanely steep with incline after incline seemingly straight up. Besides, the point was at the top you were supposed to enjoy brilliant views all the way to Arenal, the volcano, but as we slowly grunted our way along the torture road, we realized we were climbing into the thick mist of the cloud forest. Nothing to see here! We would make it to the top of a mini-mountain, enjoy three feet of flat trail, think "whew, that must be the last steep climb," then round a bend to a wall of path in front of us. Needless to say, I was not a pleasant hiking partner and despite my pledge to challenge myself, we gave up when we encountered rain and an energetic tribe of wasps. There were some pretty views but the view of a chair and my banana yogurt shake from the chalet's deck was the best.

Following that drama, we set off into town to grab lunch at Taco Taco (holy yum), experience Costa Rican coffee at the tiny espresso shop, Beso (Spanish for kiss, awwww), then drive over to a studio/gallery recommended by the hotel. The GPS led us down another tiny dirt road and we emerged in front of a round structure. A dude came out of nowhere and introduced himself as Roberto, the artist. He showed us into the gallery (which doubles as a studio in the off season), the entrance of which was an amazing orchid greenhouse featuring hundreds of plants, including the smallest one in the world - just 1.8 mm flower with petals ONE CELL thick. Insane. His art was an interesting mix of literal animals and landscapes (early) and more abstract paintings (current). We spent an hour exploring his paintings and chatting before finally leaving with a piece that we really love. Not sure where it will live, but we're excited for the permanent reminder of our trip.

Roberto had also mentioned a waterfall view just down the road, so we waved goodbye and set off in pursuit, stopping to take a look at the vistas and the (tiny) waterfall from a distance. Ahh, Monteverde, we love you.

Notes From The Travel Journal--Monteverde, Part One

Thursday, March 10, 2016



I'm currently deep in the throes of a lovely stomach flu and desperately trying to flashback to happier, less nauseous times during our trip to Costa Rica last week.

Simon spent a year there during college as part of a study abroad program and when we were scrambling to book a warm weather destination, a direct flight to Liberia, Costa Rica kept popping up as a cheaper alternative to Mexico and the Caribbean. Simon was excited to revisit the country he studied in and I was pumped to make my first trip to Central America.

There was some drama with the rental car when we landed at the Liberia airport, but we got things squared away amidst the shocking 95 degree temps and headed off on our drive to Monteverde. Three quarters of the way was smooth highway sailing then we hit the dirt/rock/boulder path that began the final 30km climb up to Monteverde. The views were simultaneously terrifying and beautiful as we wound our way up the mountainside road, finally arriving at Hotel Belmar.

Ahh, this place! We walked into our room and just marveled at the space...everything was a deep shiny wood, with sunshine streaming in from huge floor to ceiling windows that looked out over the mountain and down to the Nicoya Peninsula. It was stunning. And the crazy shower made of windows perched off the side of the room, also with views to the ocean.


We were really in awe and kind of shocked that it really wasn't all that pricey for something so peaceful and beautiful and just what we needed after the long trip there. We explored the hotel's grounds, popped into their hot tub, and retired early after a yummy dinner at the onsite restaurant.

Maybe it was the time zone difference but I couldn't sleep past 6am on this trip. The next day, I awoke to soft pink light in the sky and slowly watched as the sun rose and a rainbow formed as the mist from the clouds off the mountain met the sun on the other side. We gobbled up breakfast, ignored the chilly winds and mist (we were ill-prepared for the coolness on the mountain), and took a short walk through the cloud forest on the hotel's property before boarding the turismo shuttle to Selvatura Adventure Park where we planned to experience the hanging bridges hike.

It was raining so we rocked some one-size-fits-all ponchos and set off on the trail. 8 suspension bridges in all, varying in height and length. This was a personal challenge as heights and edges aren't really my thing, but it was amazing to see the forest from above the trees. Everything was so lush and deep green with such unique vegetation compared to other forests I've seen. Our lovely phone photos will try to do the explaining (on the plane, we realized we neglected to bring our actual camera). Stay tuned for more from our time in the forests...award-winning i-phone snaps of critters are up next!