Into The Woods

As if we weren't already in the woods! But we drove north yesterday for a quick trip into the White Mountains. It seemed to be peak fall foliage there and "we" wanted to get back into that hiking life "we" has briefly embraced while prepping for our 2017 trek in Patagonia. My hesitancy stemmed mostly from an anxiety-laden combination of being massively out of shape, having some sort of lung "damage" from whatever illness I experienced in March, getting "old," and honestly, being a little afraid. So yeah, I was so excited, ha!

But it was beautiful. Don't get me wrong, in the moment, I hated a lot of it, likely because it was so physically difficult (and shouldn't have been) and I was unnecessarily terrified of getting down. I struggled much of the way up and honestly, was pretty miserable. The climb took us over roots, rocks, and some pine needle paths winding up Potash Mountain through some primarily green beech-heavy forest, then a pine forest, and finally up to the scrubbier mountain top. 

Holy moly, gorgeous views in all directions with stunning foliage. We sat for a quick lunch and rest then made our way down. The hiking poles were key there and it was easier than I anticipated. All told, 4 miles round trip and about 1,300 feet in elevation change on the way up. Despite the beauty of it all, I'm still processing my reactions. I'll get back to you on that.

Shelburne Farms - Burlington, VT

We took a lovely jaunt up to Burlington, VT this weekend to visit Pete and Sille and give Simon's new skis a test run. We drove up Saturday morning and headed over to Shelburne Farms for an icy stroll on their property. As the former country estate to the Vanderbilts, the main campus is a 1400 acre working farm, forest and National Historic Landmark. They steward and share their property in ways that are environmentally, economically, and culturally sustainable, using it as a campus for learning. There is a seasonal inn and restaurant but the miles of trails through the woods, fields, and along the lake shore are open year-round. It was beautiful with hardly anyone else around and the sun dipping slowly as we meandered along the walking paths. Plus we discovered that partly snow covered, brown, wintry fields are Merwin's perfect camouflage. Can you find him?

Notes From The Travel Journal - Estancia Cristina

After a quick overnight in Calafate we bussed over to Punta Bandera on the shores of Lago Argentino where a boat bound for Estancia Cristina was waiting. We didn't quite know what to expect in this next part of our Patagonian adventure. 

The Estancia is set in an isolated and completely remote corner of Los Glaciares National Park, accessible only by this once-a-day boat and limited to guests of the lodge as well as day-trippers who purchased one of three excursions. We didn't really understand any of this when we booked our two-night stay here but were drawn instead to the website's photos of vast Patagonian steppe and towering snow-capped mountains alongside the glowing blue water of the Lago. According to those pictures, THIS was the Patagonia of my dreams.

Even before we got to our destination, we were blown away. Yes, by the wind, but also by the picturesque ride across the lake. Mountains. Bright blue glacial water. Icebergs. The Upsala Glacier. It was impossible not to be giddy as we cruised by this plethora of natural wonders.

We disembarked in awe, immediately greeted by a lodge representative who whisked us away to settle in while the day-trippers embarked on their treks. The lodge offered highly personalized service including excellent meals, an array of available guided excursions, and rooms with sweeping views of the steppe and mountains. This is what I envisioned when we were planning our stay. 

Our nearly three full days at the Estancia were full of trekking, trekking, and more trekking.  The "Waterfall of the Dogs," "Canyon of the Fossils," and one un-named, but equally as beautiful hike on our last day. Each walk headed in a different direction away from the Estancia, providing three unique perspectives on the surrounding landscape. The detailed descriptions of the fossils, history of the glaciers, and age of the rock formations have escaped me since the journey, but suffice it to say, it was old, impressive, and in sections, reminiscent of what I imagine Mars looks like.

While the facts and figures have faded from memory, our time at the Estancia won't drip out of my brain anytime soon. A perfect place in the perfectest of Patagonian settings.

Notes From The Travel Journal - El Chalten

An early morning flight whisked us south to El Calafate, one of two main towns in the part of Southern Argentina we were due to explore. Transportation between these places was complicated and we were in for lots of shuffling around within Patagonia over the next week. Didn't bother me as I was eager to take full advantage of every moment in this wonderland of natural amazement.

The first step was grabbing our crappy little Paleo Fiat rental car and driving three hours north to El Chalten, a small backpacking focused tourist town within Los Glaciares National Park. We had spotted its prized treasure, Mount Fitz Roy, from the plane but this drive was our first real interaction with the Andes (!!!), growing closer and more impressive as we puttered north. Fitz Roy and his friends slowly emerged from the clouds as we neared Chalten and the Park's entrance. It was already everything my great expectations had hoped for...and more.

We passed through the town of Chalten itself then drove down a dirt/rock road to Hosteria El Pilar, an off the grid B+B that came highly recommended from friends. We were warmly greeted by Cristina and Guillermo who recommended a short trek to warm up our legs before the main event the next day. 

Laguna de los Tres had captivated me from the moment we booked our trip. I'm not sure where I learned of this hike or how I became obsessed with it, but obsessed I was, determined to conquer it. The hike was an out and back trail of about 12 miles, the first five elevating 300 feet followed by a 1200 foot climb in less than a mile. Holy moly. But unlike anything I've ever done, I didn't care what it took. I wanted to see those views and I was going to do it. Nothing was going to stand in my way. I can't remember the last time I was so set on a goal.

We set a slow pace for those first 5 miles through the forest, rewarded with views of Fitz Roy and glaciers along the way. The final mile was the hardest thing I've ever done - incredibly steep with every step a struggle uphill. Just before the end of the trail the scrubby trees faded away, replaced by barren rocks and a cool breeze. We pushed through the last arduous climb and then it was like the rest of world fell away. From the top of the crest, Fitz Roy loomed above, a partially frozen glacial lake gleaming green at its base. There were dozens of other people among us up there but it felt reverently silent in a way that only an enormous natural place can be. It was huge. It was vast. It was unlike anywhere I've been. And we had climbed it, exceeding my expectations of what was possible for me. I cried.

Climbing down was its own challenge but we made it (with the help of a walking stick delivered by a guardian angel) and returned on wobbly legs to the Hosteria for a celebratory beer before another great meal and a solid night's rest. Over the next few days, we completed a few more small hikes right around Chalten, savoring the views of Fitz Roy in rare bright sunshine and calm breezes.

Chalten was the highlight of our trip to Argentina, with Laguna de los Tres the highlight's highlight. For sure the most beautiful place we have ever been. I've always loved natural vistas and dramatic landscapes but this experience took the cake. Pictures don't do it justice, my words don't do it justice. It felt very large, profound, and meaningful in ways that I can't describe. Truly a once in a lifetime feeling I think. So yeah, if anyone ever says "Want to go to El Chalten?" just say yes. Our world is amazing and this place belongs on the highlight reel.