After a quick overnight in Calafate we bussed over to Punta Bandera on the shores of Lago Argentino where a boat bound for Estancia Cristina was waiting. We didn't quite know what to expect in this next part of our Patagonian adventure.
The Estancia is set in an isolated and completely remote corner of Los Glaciares National Park, accessible only by this once-a-day boat and limited to guests of the lodge as well as day-trippers who purchased one of three excursions. We didn't really understand any of this when we booked our two-night stay here but were drawn instead to the website's photos of vast Patagonian steppe and towering snow-capped mountains alongside the glowing blue water of the Lago. According to those pictures, THIS was the Patagonia of my dreams.
Even before we got to our destination, we were blown away. Yes, by the wind, but also by the picturesque ride across the lake. Mountains. Bright blue glacial water. Icebergs. The Upsala Glacier. It was impossible not to be giddy as we cruised by this plethora of natural wonders.
We disembarked in awe, immediately greeted by a lodge representative who whisked us away to settle in while the day-trippers embarked on their treks. The lodge offered highly personalized service including excellent meals, an array of available guided excursions, and rooms with sweeping views of the steppe and mountains. This is what I envisioned when we were planning our stay.
Our nearly three full days at the Estancia were full of trekking, trekking, and more trekking. The "Waterfall of the Dogs," "Canyon of the Fossils," and one un-named, but equally as beautiful hike on our last day. Each walk headed in a different direction away from the Estancia, providing three unique perspectives on the surrounding landscape. The detailed descriptions of the fossils, history of the glaciers, and age of the rock formations have escaped me since the journey, but suffice it to say, it was old, impressive, and in sections, reminiscent of what I imagine Mars looks like.
While the facts and figures have faded from memory, our time at the Estancia won't drip out of my brain anytime soon. A perfect place in the perfectest of Patagonian settings.
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