Notes From The Travel Journal - Buenos Aires

Tuesday, January 2, 2018

I can't begin to tell you how long we've dreamed of an adventure in Patagonia. Actually, here is a 2013 post in which I articulate my top five travel destinations. Lo and behold, Argentina and Chile tied for numero uno. It seems like every summer for the past three years, we've said "This winter, we're going to Patagonia." We would start the planning then rapidly get overwhelmed with a seemingly infinite number of potential destinations and the length of time necessary to get there and travel between places once there.

We were with my mom in Wisconsin this summer and she said "Well where are you going to go on a trip?" With only one person's vacation time restrictions to navigate, she prodded us to take advantage of my unique and temporary unemployment situation. Well, duh! So thanks to her, this longtime dream of ours, and some helpful advice from friends, we booked the trip.

After some touch and go last minute plane cancellations, we set out for Buenos Aires on Thanksgiving Day. Three hour flight to Miami followed by a nine hour overnight haul to Argentina and we were in South America! A new continent! Eeee! We grabbed an early morning cab to our AirBnB in the trendy neighborhood of Palermo Soho, a hip Brooklyn-esque part of town, settled in for a two-hour nap, then woke to explore town. 

We took it easy our first day with a stop at the highly recommend Persicco for ice cream. Marscapone, dulce de leche, chocolate and americano gave us some energy to stroll over to the Botanical Gardens and enjoy a flight of beers before gearing up for our first experience at a parilla - La Cabrera. Basically, this translates to BEEF, lots of beef.

Amazingly, my cousin and his husband live just south of the city so met up with us the next day to show us the sites - the famed Obelisk, touristy shopping district, government buildings, Puerto Madero for bondinos, the amazing El Ateneo bookstore nestled into an old theater (complete with cafe on the stage!), and finally, a delicious dinner (more bife but also pizza) at La Hormiga. They had to jet off to a birthday gathering the next day, but it was amazing to be so far from home and be so warmly welcomed by family. Always helpful to get some inside info from the folks that live where you travel.

In our remaining time in the big city, we enjoyed a tango performance in San Telmo, experienced the tradition of the social drink mate, toured the absolutely stunning Recoleta Cemetery, and had our first taste of empanadas (and more ice cream...).

Buenos Aires is a city full of culture, vitality, excellent cuisine, and friendly locals. It was remarkable how similar it seemed to New York during our four-night stay. Replace the Spanish text on awnings and buildings with English, and bam, Third Avenue. A great first stop on our adventure!

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