An early morning flight whisked us south to El Calafate, one of two main towns in the part of Southern Argentina we were due to explore. Transportation between these places was complicated and we were in for lots of shuffling around within Patagonia over the next week. Didn't bother me as I was eager to take full advantage of every moment in this wonderland of natural amazement.
The first step was grabbing our crappy little Paleo Fiat rental car and driving three hours north to El Chalten, a small backpacking focused tourist town within Los Glaciares National Park. We had spotted its prized treasure, Mount Fitz Roy, from the plane but this drive was our first real interaction with the Andes (!!!), growing closer and more impressive as we puttered north. Fitz Roy and his friends slowly emerged from the clouds as we neared Chalten and the Park's entrance. It was already everything my great expectations had hoped for...and more.
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We passed through the town of Chalten itself then drove down a dirt/rock road to Hosteria El Pilar, an off the grid B+B that came highly recommended from friends. We were warmly greeted by Cristina and Guillermo who recommended a short trek to warm up our legs before the main event the next day.
Laguna de los Tres had captivated me from the moment we booked our trip. I'm not sure where I learned of this hike or how I became obsessed with it, but obsessed I was, determined to conquer it. The hike was an out and back trail of about 12 miles, the first five elevating 300 feet followed by a 1200 foot climb in less than a mile. Holy moly. But unlike anything I've ever done, I didn't care what it took. I wanted to see those views and I was going to do it. Nothing was going to stand in my way. I can't remember the last time I was so set on a goal.
We set a slow pace for those first 5 miles through the forest, rewarded with views of Fitz Roy and glaciers along the way. The final mile was the hardest thing I've ever done - incredibly steep with every step a struggle uphill. Just before the end of the trail the scrubby trees faded away, replaced by barren rocks and a cool breeze. We pushed through the last arduous climb and then it was like the rest of world fell away. From the top of the crest, Fitz Roy loomed above, a partially frozen glacial lake gleaming green at its base. There were dozens of other people among us up there but it felt reverently silent in a way that only an enormous natural place can be. It was huge. It was vast. It was unlike anywhere I've been. And we had climbed it, exceeding my expectations of what was possible for me. I cried.
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Climbing down was its own challenge but we made it (with the help of a walking stick delivered by a guardian angel) and returned on wobbly legs to the Hosteria for a celebratory beer before another great meal and a solid night's rest. Over the next few days, we completed a few more small hikes right around Chalten, savoring the views of Fitz Roy in rare bright sunshine and calm breezes.
Chalten was the highlight of our trip to Argentina, with Laguna de los Tres the highlight's highlight. For sure the most beautiful place we have ever been. I've always loved natural vistas and dramatic landscapes but this experience took the cake. Pictures don't do it justice, my words don't do it justice. It felt very large, profound, and meaningful in ways that I can't describe. Truly a once in a lifetime feeling I think. So yeah, if anyone ever says "Want to go to El Chalten?" just say yes. Our world is amazing and this place belongs on the highlight reel.
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