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Off to Zanzibar, the impetus for this entire journey. After a friend mentioned that our itinerary might be overly heavy on actual safari days, I was nervous we would be sick of wildlife viewing, but we were actually despondent to leave. But alas, off we went on a puddle jumper back to Wilson Airport in Nairobi, transfers through customs and immigration, and a brief flight over to Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania in the Indian Ocean.
As soon as we disembarked the heat and humidity assaulted us. It was intense. Probably 95 degrees and 99% humidity, no lie. But we made it through the non-air conditioned immigration and piled into a taxi for the 1.5 hour drive north to Elewana's Kilindi resort. I've never been in a predominantly Muslim country before and observing the way of life, villages, people, shops, and culture from the van was quite the experience. Fascinating.
Arriving at Kilindi felt weird. The road was lined with villagers, shops, and "run down" looking hodge podge dwellings and structures then suddenly a gate with an armed guard appeared hiding this pristine property beyond. It was uncomfortable to see that dichotomy. Actually, I felt that a lot this trip and had to remind myself that tourism is part of the economy, but I still feel pretty mixed up about it.
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Anyway, the resort was as insane as expected. Originally built as a private home for a band member of the group ABBA, it was comprised of 15 different "pavilions" discreetly built into the forested hills leading down to the sea. Our home for the next five nights had a long set of stairs first leading to a sun pavilion with comfy beds and a plunge pool. Continue up to an open sleeping pavilion with huge doors that open to views of the sea. One more set of stairs led to the entirely open bathroom, also with ocean views. Finally, one more set of steps to a terrace with sweeping views across the treetops to the ocean. It was the most ridiculous place we've ever stayed.
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Our routine was lounging pool side most of the day, enjoying delicious food and afternoon mango daiquiris, then taking evening strolls on the beach when the heat slightly subsided. It was so hot that we didn't even venture into historic Stone Town, the center of the 19th century slave trade and flourishing spice market. We were disappointed we missed out, but there was no way I could handle a three hour walking tour since traveling four feet from the lounge bed to the pool was enough of an effort in the heat.
So, woe is us, we embraced the relaxation. It really was the perfect nightcap to the safari experience and a great way to feel sunshine beach vibes before our extremely long travel day back to the wintry states.
I've struggled with how to really capture this trip in words. There's nothing I can say to explain how perfect, special, and just plain magical it felt. I immediately tried to convince Simon that I needed to celebrate my 50th birthday somewhere in Africa (Botswana and South Africa?) and because we never know what could happen, we should probably just do it next year. Love my logic. Anyway, I'd repeat it in all a heartbeat. Thank you Kenya and Tanzania.
