Notes From The Travel Journal--Snaefellsnes Peninsula

I should warn you that this will likely be longwinded and over-photoed. I'm obsessed with Iceland and with the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in particular. It was stunning. I'm a sucker for scenic vistas and the Peninsula was this brimming cornucopia of beauty at every turn. It was also desolate with a capital d, something I tend to be drawn to in travel. I love exploring cities and their cultures and histories, but relaxing amidst breathtaking landscapes is a nice counterpoint.

I should mention (I told you this was gonna be long) that I sort of forced Simon to book Hotel Budir. Like when we picked the remote Hacienda in the middle of Mexico for our honeymoon and diverted our trip with friends to the Casa in the Pyrenees, I visited Hotel Budir's website and knew we had to go. 

Our drive there was a lot easier than our time on the Golden Circle. Roads were in fairly good condition and starting about 20 minutes outside of Reykjavik, I made Simon stop for photo opps every few minutes. Jagged snow-capped mountains meeting vast lava fields that abutted the sea. Add some Icelandic horses and sprinkle in a bit of sun peeking over the horizon and the drive itself was a trip highlight.

The hotel did not disappoint. We arrived as the sun was dipping, sort of setting everything aglow, a nice contrast to the blue, white and grey hues that are typical in days that only see 4 hours of sun. The hotel is situated on a lava field that juts into the sea - ocean on two sides with mountains on the others. Unreal. We explored the grounds when we first arrived, loving the way the sunset lit up the mountains behind us as well as the historic black wood church on the property (still used for weddings!). The interior spaces were perfect for cozying up with a book - the lounge and bar overlooked a little inlet with the mountains behind it.

We drove into the Snaefellsjokull National Park the next day and even with all the amazing things we'd seen on this trip, this day took the cake. The photos will do the talking and it was the perfect way to end our journey. I really, really loved our time in Iceland. I've already searched for return plane tickets (you know for my post-Powerball fantasy life) and am desperate to imagine that someday we will go back. 

Notes From The Travel Journal--Reykjavik

We parted from my mom at the Keflavik airport and grabbed our rental Suzuki to make the 45 minute drive to Reykjavik - Iceland's capital where 75% of the country's residents live. Aka, not much going on in the rest of the country...

Lesson One: I will never speak Icelandic. Just the road names alone...nope, not gonna try. After navigating our way via Kronickskejordbratslauzer and Ringbrautskellerhorn (ha!), we arrived at the Kvosin Downtown Hotel and took off for dinner at Snaps, a nearby French bistro. I was hangry. That never ends well. Actually it ends well, it just doesn't start well. We devoured French onion soup, delicious duck salad, and beef bourginon amongst the mostly Icelandic crowd. Then we strolled through downtown Reykjavik before retiring for a glass of wine and game in the hotel bar. 

Travelers to Iceland often drive "The Ring," a series of roads that circumnavigate the island. We didn't have time for that, but knew we could catch some highlights along the shorter inland route, the Golden Circle. Apparently, inland equals the arctic tundra because it was crazy! We stopped along the way at the Geysir (just what it sounds like) then spent a little more time at Gullfoss Waterfall before heading to our next stop, Laugarvatn Fontana, a geothermal spa. I may or may not mention the incident where we thought we were driving out an exit but the tundra snow tricked us into driving into a snowbank. We got stuck. We got unstuck. Adventures in Iceland!

Dinner that evening was scrumptious at Grillmarkaourinn (Grillmarket if Icelandic isn't your thang) with an excellent steak for me and three grilled fishes for Simon. Dessert was the real highlight (as if that's ever NOT the case) with this decadent chocolate shell filled with coffee ice cream and marscapone cream. Before we dove in, the waiter drizzled hot caramel over the top. So. Good.

We rose with the 11:30am sunrise the next day for a stroll to Hallgrimskirkja Church atop a hill towards the edge of town. Gorgeous views out over the city, sea, and mountains and our first experience with that Icelandic wind we came to know and love before we trotted back through town (purchased a classic Icelandic sweater!) and departed for the Snaefellsnes Peninsula!

Notes From The Travel Journal--Copenhagen Part Two

The rest of our days in Copenhagen were spent exploring the City and making a few side trips in the "Ka." If you're not familiar with Kas they are a make of Ford vehicles. A tiny make of Ford vehicle. We resembled clowns as we piled in and out. But it was so chilly that snuggling into the Ka was a welcome respite from the bitter winds.

Our first road trip took us north (or south or west or east, I really have no clue because I am directionally challenged and geographically ignorant) with a stop along the water for our first view of Sweden. Then onto Dyrehaven, a park that served as the former king's hunting grounds with seemingly domesticated deers roaming the fields. We roamed with them for a bit before meeting some of Sille's family then jaunting off to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (not pronounced "Louisiana" but more "Lucy-ana" with a little Danish flair). Though we arrived in the dark, you could still see the grounds leading to the water's edge with sculptures here and there around the property. The actual museum and galleries were mostly long hallways full of windows and lots of Danish-looking design elements - our favorite! Coincidentally, that evening back in Copenhagen we ate at the restaurant Dyrehaven, where we split a bunch of scrumptious Danish dinners. We didn't eat the king's deers.

Our next day led us to Gilleleje, a sea town that was reminiscent of Martha's Vineyard. We were treated to a delicious homemade Danish brunch by Sille's mom and boyfriend, Robert, before strolling down to the harbor for more Swedish views in the sunshine. We then bid farewell to the Ka, boarded a train, and met up with Sille's dad for a guided tour of Kronborg castle (the apparent inspiration for Hamlet). As far as I know this was my first European castle experience (since you know, I often travel unconscious), and it was amazing. Gorgeous setting, beautiful views, and fascinating history. 

On our last day in Copenhagen, Simon and Sille took a "polar plunge," though the jury is out as to whether or not Simon actually submerged himself, since none of us attended the insanity. We got a glimpse of Pete's artist studio, savored some tasty sandwiches, and shopped the Danish department stores and boutiques before we hopped aboard the metro to the airport.

I can't thank Pete and Sille enough for letting us interrupt their lives while showing us such a spectacular time. We feel lucky to have toured the city with knowledgeable guides who gave us a warm glimpse of Copenhagen we'd be unable to find on our own. And it was a treat to travel with my mom. I have a feeling she may be have been bitten by the travel bug too! More soon as we journey to Iceland.

While my younger brother currently lives in Copenhagen with his wife, they're contemplating a move to the states. It seemed silly to let them leave without visiting! So on December 30, we met up with my mom at Logan, enjoyed some wine, then boarded an overnight plane to Denmark. Let the adventures begin!

We arrived on the last day of the year, dazed and confused from our sleepless night and early morning stopover in Reykjavik. But they gathered us up and off we went to their neighborhood, Fredericksburg (you'll have to excuse any spelling errors). We dropped our bags at Glenn's Airbnb then made the short walk to their apartment for some DANISH OPEN FACED SANDWICHES, a demand Simon had declared prior to our arrival. A Danish tradition of dark rye bread and toppings such as frikedeller (meatballs) with pickled onions and remoulade. Smorrebrod carries with it strict traditions around recipes and consumption, so be careful if the Queen is about. 

Fireworks galore for New Years Eve. This cant be overstated. Fireworks for HOURS. Literally everyone sets them off from the stoops of their city apartments, street corners, and parks from sunset (3:30ish) until around 2am. It was quite a show. We toasted 2016 with some champagne by the lakes then gave into jet lag as the bursts diminished.

We celebrated New Years with a canal tour on a boat designed to easily glide under the low-slung stone canal bridges. I always think seeing a new city from the water is a good way to get the lay of the land. Plus it was the balmiest day there; we sat on the outside portion of the boat for most of the tour. Traditional Danish "polsers" (hot dogs) followed before we roamed back to our home away from home for surprisingly excellent pizzas (that I BIKED to pick up...for the record, one can forget how to ride a bike) and game after game of Pete's new favorite, Qwixx.

We quickly fell in love with Copenhagen. It feels quaint even though it isn't small. I loved the cobblestone and brick streets and the classic European squares that for some reason, American cities lack. More to come as we pile into the "Ka" for adventures outside our new favorite city!

The Everyday Disruption

The non-profit world goes through phrases with its hot topics and lingo. A few years ago it was "capitalization" and "outreach," the buzzwords that drove philanthropic interests and non-profit strategies. I've recently heard the term "creative disruption" thrown around. As far as I can tell, this refers to a literal disruption, a sabbatical for leaders that you initially think would lead the organization into chaos but instead serves to strengthen operations and invigorate leadership.

All this babble to say that I am beginning to think of travel as my own "creative disruption." Sure, a break from work is nice, but it goes beyond that. Disrupting the everyday by exploring a new place, seeing breathtaking landscapes, gaining understanding of different cultures, and removing yourself from yourself is invigorating. When you return, you are refreshed with a refreshed perspective. You see the everyday nuisances a bit differently and somehow less significantly for a little while. The traffic? Eh, whatever. The mountains meeting the lava fields at the edge of the ocean were too amazing and too big and too unimaginable to let minutia have an impact. A journey somewhere a little uncomfortable, just removed enough from your everyday pattern and routine is powerful. And for a little while after, the experience and memories make all the stressful things seem to pale. I want more!